Large Scale R/C & Scooter Experts HOME PRODUCTS SUPPORT DEALERS






Tel: (801) 619-0235
Toll-Free: (866) 368-1441
Fax: (801) 619-0240
Email: sales@davesmotors.com
Mailing Address:
228 West 12300 South, Suite 106
Draper, UT 84020 USA


Goped General Questions | Goped Maintenance Questions
Goped High Performance Questions | Pocketbike Questions

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

If you don't find the answer you are looking for, send us an email and we will be glad to help with your questions!

  • Is DDM an authorized dealer?

Yes, DDM is a direct factory-authorized dealer or distributor for each of the following manufacturers and brands:
Patmont Motor Werks (PMW) - Goped brand scooters
Zenoah Engines
Walbro Carburetors
NGK Spark Plugs
HPI Racing R/C Products
FG Modellsport R/C Products


DDM is also a direct factory-authorized dealer for each of the following smaller manufacturers:
ADA Racing - DarkSoul - Engine Trix - Earth Surfer Products - Extreme Toys - GP Racing - Jet-Pro - KOS Products - Lightstream - MD Billet - Outerwears - Proline Racing - Pacific Sales - RamTech - Scooter Pros - Sikk Toys - TeamGoNads (TGN) - Trevor Simpson - Turtle Racing - Vertigo Performance - Zero Error

We work directly with the best in order to bring you a wide variety of products at unbeatable pricing.

GOPED GENERAL QUESTIONS

  • Is there a difference between a Go-Ped® and other stand-up scooters?

    You bet! You may have seen other scooters advertised as 'like' a genuine Go-Ped®. Don't be fooled. Patmont Motor Werks, manufacturer of all Go-Peds®, has issued the following consumer warning :

    "Inferior imitation products are being sold to unsuspecting consumers by less than ethical resellers. This is being done by using our Go-Ped® trademark in web sites and elsewhere to call attention to and sell confusingly similar products. This is referred to as "Bait and Switch". Don't be victimized by those inferior products and tactics. IF IT DOESN'T SAY GO-PED®, IT'S NOT A GO-PED®."

    The first Go-Ped was created by Steve Patmont in Pleasanton, California, which is also the founding location of Dave's Discount Motors. Genuine Go-Peds are protected by several U.S. Patents, and and PMW recently won a lawsuit against the manufacturers of a Go-Ped knock-off. In short: a Go-Ped is the original, it is the genuine article, and in our opinion, simply the best stand-up scooter around!
     

  • Which Go-Ped model is right for me?
    You will enjoy your Go-Pedding experience much more if you use the right model for your size, riding style, and choice of terrain. In short,

    The Sport, SS Racers Kit, and S25 are best suited for:
    Average riders
    Riders weighing 100 pounds or over
    Riders looking for quick acceleration and tight handling
    All-around general use

    The GSR25 and GSR Sport are best suited for:
    Riders looking for a smooth ride
    Making frequent stops and starts
    Cruising

    The GSR29R, GSR46R, and Super X-ped are best suited for:
    Riders looking for a fast and aggressive ride
    Jumping, grinding and doing tricks
    Advanced riders

    The ESR750 and ESR750EX are best suited for:
    Smooth, air-cushioned ride

    Ultra-quiet electric transportation
    On-road use

    The GTR46, RIOT, and GTR Quad are best suited for:
    Smooth, air-cushioned ride

    Jumping
    Off-road or rough terrain use

All models handle hills and turns well. These are just general guidelines... you may find you fit into several categories. For more insights onto which model is right for you, give DDM a call at 801 619 0235 and we will be happy to answer any questions you may have!

  • What are the differences between Goped models?

    Click here for a comprehensive chart comparing the features of Goped scooters.
     

  • How fast will my stock model Goped scooter go?
    The Sport, S25, GSR25, ESR750, ESR750EX, and GSR Sport models all reach their top speeds at about 20 mph. The Super X-ped and SS Racers Kit  top out at about 25 mph. The GSR29R, GRS46R, GTR46, and GTR Quad have a top speed of approx 30 mph.  
     

  • Is my Goped scooter legal to ride on public streets?

    The laws vary greatly depending on where you live. California residents should be aware of the information found here.
    In general, we recommend that you ask the law enforcement agency where you live for a specific answer. It is the responsibility of every Goped rider to use good judgment when riding, and that includes making sure that we all obey the law!

    If is is not legal to ride a Goped on the streets or sidewalks in your town, you have a few options - either ride it on private property, or ask the police where it would be OK to ride. If there are no laws prohibiting Go-Pedding where you live, great! But now you have a responsibility to be a good example of safe, defensive, courteous Goped use. This sends a message to those who might want to restrict the use of these great machines - 'Go-Pedders' are NOT crazy, dangerous people that do stupid things like run stop signs and scare pedestrians off the sidewalk. Go-pedding is a great pastime, so please don't ruin it for those who can enjoy it responsibly. Please note also that a Goped is not equipped with reflectors, lights, and other features found on a bicycle. Nighttime riding is therefore unsafe and DDM recommends that you avoid riding in traffic as well. DDM makes NO CLAIMS as to the legality of operating Go-peds or other motorized scooters in your area.
     

  • How long is the warranty on my Goped scooter?
    Patmont Motor Werks covers all its products with a 90 day warranty.
     

  • What if I need to return a product?
    No problem. You can view a copy of our terms of sale here.
    All returns need to be accompanied by a completed product return form. You can download this form here.
    The return form requires Adobe Acrobat to view - download it for free here.
     

  • Does DDM match prices?
    The manufacturer of all Goped brand scooters, Patmont Motor Werks, has implemented a MAP (Minimum Advertised Price) policy. The prices shown on our website conform to this policy. Call 801 619 0235 for a competitive price quote over the phone. DDM believes that offering a fair price, great service, and providing extensive on-line Go-ped resources is best for our customers.

     

  • Is assembly required when my Goped scooter arrives?
    The Sport, S25, Know-ped, GSR25, and GSR Sport all come fully assembled and tested by the factory. The Super X-ped, GTR46, GSR46R, and GSR29R will need to have the handlebar connected when it arrives by tapping the plastic pin through the handlebar joint. The SS Racers Kit requires full assembly.
     

  • Does DDM ship internationally?
    Yes, we do. Every day. More info is here:  http://www.davesmotors.com/goped-international.htm   
     

  • Can I get some free DDM stickers?
    Sure :)  Send us a S.A.S.E.
    (self-addressed, stamped envelope. This is an envelope with your return address and a stamp on it. We will put the stickers in the envelope you send and mail it back to you.) So, you need 2 envelopes with stamps:
    1 large envelope addressed to:

    DDM Sticker Request
    228 West 12300 South, Suite 106
    Draper, UT 84020

    Inside this envelope, put another stamped envelope addressed to you. We will put the stickers in this envelope and mail them back to you.

    GOPED MAINTENANCE

  • I lost the owners manual for my Goped scooter! Where can I get a new one?
    Download the manuals here:  General Owners Manual for All Gas Goped Scooters
    Sport/Liquimatic   Bigfoot   GSR40 / GSR40-TS  
    Geo-Models   Super-Models   Homebuilders Kit
    ESR750 / ESR750-EX / ESR Sport   GTR46 / Riot

    Download the Goped Factory Shop Manual here. Service and tech info for most Goped models!

    Engine owners manuals: G230RC / G260RC     G231PUM / G260PUM / G231PUH / G260PUH / G260PU     G62PU

    Exploded views of engines: G43L     G23LH     GZ25N14     GZ25N23

    Exploded views of scooters:  Go-Quad 30     S25     GSR25     GSR40     GTR46 Trail Ripper     ESR750

    You will need the Adobe Acrobat reader to view these files - you can download it for free at
    http://www.adobe.com

     
  • How do I push-start my Go-Ped®?
    The following models can be push-started: Sport, X-ped, Super X-ped, Homebuilders Kit, S25, X25, Super Bigfoot. You can download a video here.
     
  • How do I mix the fuel for my Go-Ped®?
     
    Fuel / Oil Ratio by Engine Type
    Engine Type Fuel / Oil Ratio
    Using high grade two stroke oil
    Minimum Fuel / Oil Ratio
    Using Go-Mix Oil
    G23LH 25-40 : 1 40 : 1
    G230RC / G260RC / CY23RC / CY26RC
    CY27RC / CY29RC / GP290
    G231PUM / G260PUM
    25 : 1 25 : 1
    GZ25N14 / GZ25N23 40 : 1 40 : 1
    G43L 25 – 50 : 1 50 : 1
    G43L on GSR40Tsi 25 : 1 25 : 1
    GP420 / GP460 25 : 1 25 : 1
    G620PU 25 : 1 25 : 1
    Fuel / Oil Ratio by Go-Ped® Models
    Current Go-Ped® Models Engine Type Fuel / Oil Ratio
    Using high grade
    Two-stroke oil
    Minimum Fuel / Oil Ratio Using Go-Mix Oil Tank Size
    (in liters)
    Recommended
    Go-Mix dose
    Sport G23LH 25-40 : 1 40 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    S25 GZ25N14 50:1 50 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    GSR Sport GZ25N23 50:1 50 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    GSR25 GZ25N23 50:1 50 : 1 1.5 2 small Go-Mix / tank
    GSR29R GP290 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    Super X-Ped GP290 25 : 1 25 : 1 1 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    GTR40 / GTR46 GP420 / GP460 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    SGSR42R / SGSR46R GP420 / GP460 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    Super Go-Quad 40 / 46 GP420 / GP460 25 : 1 25 : 1 1 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    Go-Quad 25 GZ25N23 50:1 50 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    Super Go-Quad 30 GP290 25 : 1 25 : 1 1 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    Homebuilders Kit GP290 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    Pro 60 Kit G620PU 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    GTR Quad GP460 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    RIOT GP460 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    Previous Models
    Liquimatic G23LH 25-40 : 1 40 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    GSR40 G43L 25 – 50 : 1 50 : 1 1.5 2 small Go-Mix / tank
    Bigfoot G23LH 25-40 : 1 40 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    X-Ped G23LH 25-40 : 1 40 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    X25 GZ25N14 50:1 50 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    G.O.X. Ped GZ25N14 50:1 50 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    Geo-Sport GZ25N14 50:1 50 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    Geo Bigfoot GZ25N14 50:1 50 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    GSR26R G230RC / G260RC 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    Super Bigfoot G230RC / G260RC 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    GSR40Tsi G43L-D+ 25 : 1 25 : 1 1.5 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon
    Go-Quad G23LH 25-40 : 1 40 : 1 1 1 small Go-Mix / tank
    Super Go-Quad G230RC / G260RC 25 : 1 25 : 1 1 3 Large Go-Mix / gallon

    For High Performance motors we recommend "pre-mixing" fuel and oil at 25:1 in a gas can to ensure an accurate ratio.
    Tips on LARGE Go-mix packets:
    One LARGE Go-Mix tube mixed into one GALLON of gas will give you a ratio of 71:1
    Three LARGE Go-Mix tubes mixed into one GALLON of gas will give you a ratio of 24:1

     

  • How do I change the drive spindle on my Go-ped?
    To install a new spindle,
    1) remove the rear wheel and move the gas tank out of your way
    2) remove the bolt in the center of the old spindle
    3) spray a little WD-40 or other loosening agent where the bolt used to be.
    4) set the Go-ped on its left side to let the oil soak down in for about 10 minutes.
    5) Give the old spindle a few light taps with a hammer as you pull on it. Pull hard, and it will come off! If you are really having a hard time getting it off, try using the narrow end of a hammer as a 'crowbar'. Place it under the end of the spindle, and tap on the hammer head to pop the spindle off.
    6) Put the new spindle on, and tap it into place.
    7) put the spindle bolt back in and tighten it very firmly. You may want to grip the new spindle with a pair of vice-grip pliers to allow you to tighten the allen bolt all the way.
    All done! Put your gas tank back in place and replace the rear wheel, and you are good to go!

    You can also purchase a spindle removal tool here which makes the process much easier.

     
  • How do I adjust the rear wheel pressure properly on the Sport / Liquimatic / Xped / Super Xped / S25 / X25 / Homebuilders Kit?
    Complete, illustrated instructions can be found in the owners manual above. For those without a .PDF reader, the instructions are summarized below.
    This is the most frequent maintenance you will do on these models, and it will save you lots of time and stress if you will master it early!

    You can also download a video of this process here.

    1. Make sure the Go-Ped is upright, but not on the kickstand (you might want to have someone hold the handlebars to balance it for you).
    2. Loosen the quick release handle on the side of the rear wheel by rotating it all the way forward, away from the wheel.
    3. Now, spin the Engine Protection Washer (that strange-looking purple thing) down and away from the tank spacer (the silver thing under the gas tank).
    4. Next, you need to apply the correct amount of pressure to the foot deck. The correct amount is about 75-80 pounds. An easy way to measure this is to use a bathroom scale - put it on top of the rear part of the foot deck, and then stand or kneel on it until the right amount of pressure is showing. (when first learning the process, it is easiest if one person applies the pressure and holds the handlebars, and the other handles the quick release)
    5. Spin the purple Engine Protection Washer back up far enough so that it clicks into place against the tank spacer. Keep the Go-Ped standing up while you do this, and make sure the pressure is still close to 75 pounds.
    6. Close the quick release assembly. It should be pointing backward, and almost touching the rear wheel.

    Now, check a few things. Did the quick release assembly close firmly, or is it still loose? If it is loose, tighten the wing nut on the left side of the tire, and repeat the adjustment process above. You will know it is at the correct tightness when the quick release is hard to shut all the way, but still possible. Next, check to see if the tire is parallel with the sides of the frame. If the Go-Ped was not straight up during the adjustment process, it may be crooked. If it all looks good, congratulations - you have successfully mastered the tire adjustment process.
    If there is too little pressure applied when adjusting the tire, the drive spindle will slip, resulting in damage to its coating and wearing your tire down very fast. If too much pressure is applied, you may damage the engine crankshaft and bearings. When the tire is out of adjustment, the Go-Ped® will be hard to kick-start, and you may notice it moving slower than usual, or having uneven acceleration.
    You should take these as general guidelines:
    Hours running since new (or a new tire):
    1-4 hours - adjust hourly
    5+ hours - adjust every 2 hours
    It is up to you, the Go-Ped® owner, to make sure your wheel is correctly adjusted to prevent premature wear on your tire.
    Your warranty does not cover tire wear.
     
  • How do I put a new rubber tire on my wheel?
    1) Remove the old tire with a saw or a knife. Make sure you cut away from yourself!
    2) Find a place like the side of a workbench where you can steady yourself.
    3) Spray some Windex or other glass cleaner on the outside of the hub and on the inside of the tire.
    4) Set the hub on its side on the ground (you might want to put some cardboard underneath it).
    5) Set the tire on top of the hub. Be sure it is centered.
    6) Jump up and let your full weight land on the rubber tire. It should pop right into place if you hit it right.
    7) You may need to try this a few times to get it right.  Be sure to steady yourself when you jump - the tire may slip out from under you when you land. Be careful!
    5) Install the new tire back onto your Go-ped.
    You can also download a video of this process here.
     
  • How do I change the front fork / bearings / FTG assembly?
    General info: The handle bar, slide tube, and handle hinge fitting assembly are precision fit.  Bent or broken parts must be replaced for the handle bar to work correctly.

    Removal of the Handle Hinge fitting assembly.

    1-  Pull up the slide tube, fold the handle bar down. With the slide tube pulled up, it can be seen that the pivot point where the handlebar folds is held together with small piece of plastic tube inserted sideways through the handlebar assembly.
    2-  Remove this tube by tapping it out sideways with a bolt or screwdriver.  The handle bar will now be removed from the lower assembly, with cables still connected.  The lower frame assembly has a wedge inside that you cannot see (like a bicycle handlebar).

    3-  To remove the handle hinge fitting assembly place an allen wrench in the bolt head, grab the wrench with a pair of channel locks for leverage and loosen the bolt 3 full turns. Place a large bolt on top of the partially loose allen bolt, and tap the allen bolt down, towards the tire.  This will drive the wedge inside downward, so the assembly will come out. The assembly should come out easily by pulling it straight up. If it does not, you have not loosened the bolt enough for the wedge to disengage.   

    Removal of the Front Fork

    Hint:  leave the front tire on for leverage when you are loosening the fork.
    Hint:  Before you start, look at how the bearing sets are placed, so you can put the fork assembly back together the same way.
    1-  After the Handle hinge assembly has been removed, the fork can be removed by loosening the top ring (with the rough surface) counterclockwise.  A large pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench is needed for this job.  About three turns will free the fork, and expose the upper and lower bearing assemblies.  Hint:  count how many times you turn the bearing cover, so you have a feel of how tight to tighten it when you reinstall the new fork. Slide your new fork into place.
    2-  Use lithium grease to lubricate the bearings before reinstalling.

    Replace the Handle Hinge fitting assembly.
    Place the handle hinge fitting assembly in the hole.  Line up the slot in the assembly so it is parallel with the tire direction.  Tighten the allen bolt very tight. To put the handle back together, hold the handle at a 45 degree angle (halfway up) for best alignment, and tap the plastic pin back through the hole.

     

  • Help! My Goped won't start! What should I do? (G23LH engine)
    1) Are you using high quality gasoline? 87 octane or higher is needed. Using octane booster is not recommended.
    2) Are you using high-quality 2-stroke oil mixed at 40:1 or richer? This is 3 ounces of oil per gallon. DO NOT USE any oil labeled as 'MARINE' or 'OUTBOARD' oil. These are designed for low-revving, watercooled oil-injected motors (such as personal watercraft), and your engine will likely not run if you use them.
    3) Are you using the choke properly? On the side of the air filter is the choke lever.  Lever should be set to 'closed' when first starting. As soon as the engine sputters at all, move the choke to open and leave it there.
    4)
    Is your spark plug clean and working? Remove the plug from the engine and inspect the tip. Is it clogged with gunk or debris? Clean if necessary. After the plug is removed, check if the plug is working by: attaching the wire to the top of the plug, and place the tip of the plug very close to the metal of the cylinder. Pull the pull start a few times. A spark should jump from the plug to the cylinder. If no spark, replace the plug and check again. If still no spark - you likely have a problem with the ignition coil, and will need professional service.
    5) Do you have a short in your kill switch wire?
    Locate the kill switch wire. It is a thin wire that comes out of the engine near the spark plug, and eventually joins up with the throttle cable before running under the deck and up to the front of your Go-ped. You will know you have the right wire when you find a section of the wire covered in clear plastic - underneath this plastic are 2 brass connectors. Slide the clear plastic off to the side and disconnect the 2 brass connectors. Now, try to start your ped. If it works, you have a short in the kill switch cable and you need a new throttle cable assembly.
    6) Is your carburetor clean?
    Cleaning the carb with a can of spray carburetor cleaner may help also.
    7) Is your engine flooded? If you have pushed the primer bulb a lot of times, or pulled the pull start a lot of times, the engine may be flooded. Remove the spark plug, and allow all the fuel in the cylinder to evaporate. You can speed up this process by blowing on it with a hair dryer.
    8) Are you getting good compression? If you have used your engine for an extended period of time, the piston ring may need replacement.
    9) Do you have a gasket leak? Check your carb gasket, insulator gasket, cylinder gasket, and crankcase gasket. Can you hear air whooshing out of the cylinder gasket or crankcase gasket when you pull the starter? Is air leaking in the insulator gasket behind the carb? A gasket leak results in a loss of compression and/or improperly mixed fuel and air.

    If your engine still won't start, you will likely need professional service on your engine.

     
  • My engine seems sluggish and won't get up to speed?
    If your engine has sluggish acceleration, is difficult to start and seems to have low wide open throttle speed, you may have a plugged exhaust. Check the muffler tubing for blockages. Remove the muffler and check the exhaust port for carbon deposits. Also, if you are using a stock muffler, check to see if the spark arrestor screen (internal muffler packing) is clogged with carbon.

     
  • Where can I find information on my carburetor?
    Here is some information on the carburetors for small engines for use in scooters and R/C:
    (visit http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/family2.asp for more info)
     
    Type Carburetor Type Exploded View
    G23LH Stock Carb WYJ-138 View of WYK-138
    G230RC / G260RC Stock Carb WT-603 View of WT-603
    Chung Yang stock carb (CY23RC, CY26RC, CY27RC, CY29RC, GP290) WT-668 View of WT-668
    GZ25N14 / GZ25N23 Stock Carb WYA-5A View of WYA-5A
    G43L (GSR40) Stock Carb WYJ-219 View of WYJ-219
    GSR40-TS Interceptor Stock Carb  WYK-33  View of WYK-33
    ADA G43L HP carb  WYK-58 View of WYK-58
    "HP" Carb for G23LH WA-167 View of WA-167
    G62 (Pro 60) Stock Carb HDA-48D View of HDA-48D
    GP420 / GP460 Stock Carb HDA-223 View of HDA-223
    Alcohol carburetor for use on G23LH / G230RC / G260RC / CY23RC / CY26RC / CY27RC / CY29RC / GP290 / G43L WT-499  
    Zenoah recommended upgrade carb for G23LH / G230RC / G260RC / CY23RC / CY26RC / CY27RC / CY29RC / GP290 WT-813  
  • Fuel leaks out of the carburetor into my air filter. How can I fix this?
    This usually happens when dirt or other debris gets lodged in the carb needle and seat area. The gas cap on a Go-ped has a one-way valve. Air can come in to replace used fuel, but nothing can get out. If the tank becomes pressurized from a hot day or from heavy engine use, the pressure will push fuel through the fuel lines and into the carb. Since there is foreign matter causing the needle to stick, the fuel usually runs out the front of the carb and into the air filter foam. Clean your carb thoroughly with a can of spray carb cleaner. (See directions under 'how do I tune my carb' above).
     
  • My handlebars are wobbly. The steering is loose. How do I fix this problem?
    To eliminate this unsafe condition, follow these steps:
    Rotate the chrome bearing bezel which is located at the top of the steering head. The bezel can come loose and cause your t-bar to flop around slightly. You may need to just tighten the bezel back up. If this doesn't solve the problem, you will need to re-tighten the allen bolt inside the hinge fitting assembly. To do this, simply:
    Fold the handlebars down. Knock out the hinge pin holding your t-bar to the black fitting assembly (using a thin wooden dowel and hitting it with a hammer works well). Now you can see the allen bolt sitting down in the fitting assembly. Loosen this bolt, then tighten the chrome bezel. Make sure your fitting assembly is in line with your axle (so your steering is set straight) and tighten the allen bolt firmly. Replace the hinge pin by knocking it back in (easier with 2 people - 1 to hold the t-bar and one to knock).  Ensure that the steering is square and the handlebars don't wobble. That's all!
     
  • What spark plugs will work in my Go-ped? What electrode gap is correct?
    These spark plugs will work in your Go-ped with the G23LH (angle plug) engine:
    (Sport, Liquimatic, X-ped, Bigfoot, Go-Quad)
    NGK 6521 BM7A
    Autolite 255
    Bosch WS5E
    Champion CJ6
    Nippon Denso W22M-U
    You should set the electrode gap between .024 and .026 inches.
     
  • How can I tell if my spark plug and ignition coil are working?
    Over time, spark plugs wear out and need to be replaced. If you think you may need a new plug or ignition coil, here is an easy test:  Remove the plug from the cylinder. Make sure the wire is still connected on top, and place the tip of the plug close to the cylinder. Pull the pull start a few times. If your plug and ignition coil are working, a spark will jump from the plug to the cylinder. If you do not get a spark, you may need to replace your plug or coil.
     
  • How can I tell what type of engine my Go-ped has?
    Here are pictures of the engines used on PMW Goped products.

    Zenoah G2D (pre-1995)

    Zenoah G43L (GSR40, GSR40-TS, and Go-Bike)

    Zenoah G23LH (Sport, Liquimatic, Bigfoot, X-ped, Go-Quad)


    Chung Yang GP290 (GSR29R, Go-Quad 30, Homebuilders Kit)


    Zenoah GZ25N14 ("Geo" Goped models, S25, X25)

    Zenoah G230RC / G260RC ("Super" Goped models, GSR26R)


    Zenoah GZ25N23 (GSR25, GSR Sport, Go-Quad 25)

    Chung Yang GP420 / GP460 (Trail Ripper 40 & 46, Go-Quad 40 & 46, SGSR42R & SGSR46R, RIOT, GTR Quad)

GOPED HIGH PERFORMANCE

  • There are lots of different engines available for Goped scooters. How fast are they, and how can I choose the right one for me?

    On a Goped scooter, there are two ways to go faster:
    1) Make your engine rev (spin) faster. This is generally accomplished with high performance parts and high performance engines.
    2) Go further with each spin (change your gearing). This is generally accomplished by using bigger drive spindles, or using different drive sprockets. However, there is a limit to how much you can increase your gearing. Eventually, the motor is not strong enough to pull the additional load - it's like trying to start your manual transmission car in 4th gear from a dead stop.

    For example, lets compare the CY23RC engine and the CY29RC engine. The CY23RC is rated at 2.5 horsepower. The CY29RC is rated at 3.5 horsepower. With stock gearing, both engines will give you about an equal top speed. Why is the speed similar, when one engine is much more powerful? Because the engines spin at about the same maximum revolutions per minute (RPM). But wait... the CY29RC puts out more power - which means that it can handle higher gearing than the CY23RC can handle. You can install a larger drive spindle, or a larger front sprocket, on your CY29RC and go much faster. Additionally, engines with higher horsepower will generally accelerate more quickly.

    The general rule of thumb should be: if you want to go fast, get an engine with the most horsepower and 'gear it up'.

    Engine Brand Size Horsepower Recommended
    Fuel Octane
    (R+M/2) Method
    Recommended
    Oil Ratio
    G23LH Zenoah 22.5cc 1.2 87 octane or higher 40:1
    G2D Zenoah 22.5cc 2.0 91 octane or higher 40:1
    G230RC Zenoah 22.5 cc 2.8 91 octane or higher 25:1
    G260RC Zenoah 25.4cc 3.0 91 octane or higher 25:1
    GZ25N14 Zenoah 25.4cc 1.4 87 octane or higher 40:1
    GZ25N23 Zenoah 25.4cc 1.5 87 octane or higher 40:1
    G43L Zenoah 41.5cc 2.5 87 octane or higher 40:1
    Modified G43L Zenoah 41.5cc 3.5 87 octane or higher 32:1
    G62PU Zenoah 61.5cc 5.0 87 octane or higher 25:1
    CY23RC Chung Yang 22.5cc 2.5 91 octane or higher 25:1
    CY26RC Chung Yang 25.4cc 3.0 91 octane or higher 25:1
    CY27RC Chung Yang 26.9cc 3.25 91 octane or higher 25:1
    CY29RC Chung Yang 28.9cc 3.5 91 octane or higher 25:1
    GP290 Chung Yang 28.5cc 3.5 91 octane or higher 25:1
    GP420 Chung Yang 41.5cc 4+ 91 octane or higher 25:1
    GP460 Chung Yang 45.7cc 4.2+ 91 octane or higher 25:1
               
  • Many engines require 91 octane (R+M/2 octane rating method) or higher gasoline. Where can I find it?
    Using "Premium" pump gasoline is a good choice for these engines. You can also purchase very high octane fuel at you local hobby shop or motorcycle shop. 
     

  • What improvements will I see with high performance parts on my G23LH engine?
    This engine comes on the Sport, Liquimatic, Bigfoot, and X-ped. The following table should help you estimate what improvements in speed and acceleration you will achieve with various high performance parts, as well as noise level impact on your Go-ped. For info on how to find the speed of your ped, check lower on this page. 

    Item Top Speed  Acceleration Noise level

    Big-bore kit (requires HP carb Kit)

    +3-4 mph faster slightly louder

    Rockit Key

    approx +1 mph slightly faster same
    .675 Spindle +1-2 mph slightly slower same
    .750 Spindle +2-3 mph slower same
    .800 spindle +3-4 mph much slower same
    .900 spindle +5-6 mph MUCH slower same
    Ported Cylinder +2-3 mph faster same
    HP Air filter alone + less than 1 mph same louder
    HP Carb Kit alone +1-2 mph slightly faster slightly louder
    HP Carb + Air filter +2-3 mph faster louder
    Tuned Pipe exhaust kit +2-3 mph slightly faster louder
    Exhaust + Carb + Air Filter +3-5 mph much faster much louder
    Complete HP Kit
    (spindle. air filter, carb, exhaust)
    +5-9 mph faster much louder
  • How do I change the drive spindle on my Go-ped?
    To install a new spindle,
    1) remove the rear wheel and move the gas tank out of your way
    2) remove the bolt in the center of the old spindle
    3) spray a little WD-40 or other loosening agent where the bolt used to be.
    4) set the Go-ped on its side to let the oil soak down in for about 10 minutes.
    5) Give the old spindle a few light taps with a hammer as you pull on it. Pull hard, and it will come off! If you are really having a hard time getting it off, try using the narrow end of a hammer as a 'crowbar'. Place it under the end of the spindle, and tap on the hammer head to pop the spindle off.
    6) Put the new spindle on, and tap it into place.
    7) put the spindle bolt back in and tighten it very firmly. You may want to grip the new spindle with a pair of vice-grip pliers to allow you to tighten the allen bolt all the way.
    All done! Put your gas tank back in place and replace the rear wheel, and you are good to go!

    You can also purchase a spindle removal tool here which makes the process much easier.

     

  • How much power does my engine have?
    Check out some dyno results from the Zenoah factory for the engines below:

    G23LH engine

    G230RC engine
    G62PU (Pro 60) engine G260RC engine

     

  • How do I change the front sprocket on my GSR25 / GSR26R / GSR29R / GSR Sport / GSR40 / GSR40-TS / Go-Bike / GTR40 / GTR46 / SGSR42R / SGSR46R / Quad 25 / Quad 30 / Quad 40 / Quad 46 / GTR Quad / RIOT?
    To install a new front sprocket:
    Remove any items which block your access to the sprocket. Remove the chain. Once you have clear access to the sprocket, spin the sprocket and you will see gaps in the clutch behind the aluminum clutch surface. Take a thin allen wrench, nail, or other long object and slide it onto the hole in the clutch to stop the clutch from spinning. Now, grab the old sprocket with a pair of pliers and unscrew the sprocket counterclockwise (it is a regular right-hand thread, so 'righty-tighty, lefty-loosey'). After you have removed the old sprocket, twist the new sprocket in firmly. You don't have to over-tighten the new sprocket - the engine will continually tighten it against the chain. Remove the allen wrench or nail, re-thread the chain, and re-install any parts you removed.. 

    You can also purchase a sprocket tool which makes this process easier. 

     

  • How do I install the G23LH HP Carburetor (Walbro WA-167) Kit?
    Installation instructions for the G23LH HP Carburetor Kit that DDM sells can be downloaded here: HP Carb Installation Instructions
     

  • How do I install the Rockit Key on a G23LH Engine?
    Quick and easy instructions to install this part:
    Take off your fan cover by removing the screws holding it on. Now, take off the nut that holds the flywheel on. You will need a 12mm socket for this. Twist a M6 size metric bolt into one of the threaded holes in the flywheel until the bolt is all the way down against the crankcase. Now, tighten the bolt slowly to lift the flywheel off. You can tap the flywheel with a rubber mallet to help it pop off. Take the bolt out of the flywheel, and turn the crankshaft until your stock flywheel key is located at the top. Remove this stock key with a screwdriver or other fine instrument. Insert your rockit key into the space in the crankshaft. Be sure the offset is facing the same way the flywheels spins. It is important that the key sits all the way down in its slot. If you are having a hard time getting it to fit, try some light sanding of the key with abrasive cloth. Next, replace your flywheel. Be sure that the rockit key stays in place as you replace the flywheel, and that the key lines up with the keyway in the flywheel. Press the flywheel on firmly. Replace the retaining nut and tighten it firmly. Re-install your fan cover, and enjoy the increased power and better fuel burn that results from properly advancing the timing! You may want to check your flywheel nut after a few minutes of use to ensure it is tight.
     

  • How should I adjust the jets on a Walbro Carburetor (WA-167 / WT-603 / WT-668 / WT-257 / WT-813, etc)?
    These carburetors require regular adjustment to ensure peak performance, and also to avoid an unsafe lean condition, which can prematurely damage your engine. If you find your top-end RPM's have fallen off a bit, or if you experience lagging or surging, it is probably time to re-adjust the carb jets. To ensure max performance and engine life, follow this procedure:
    1) Locate the low and high RPM jets on the side of the carb - they are usually marked with a L and a H. Turn both jets completely CLOCKWISE ( to the fully closed position).
    2) Rotate the Low jet counter-clockwise to 1 and 1/4 turns open.
    3) Rotate the High jet counter-clockwise to approx 1 and 3/8 turns open.
    4) Now, start the engine. You may need to turn the Low jet slightly one way or the other for the engine to start.
    5) Adjust the Low jet as desired until the idle is where you like it. Turning clockwise ("CLOSING" THE JET)  will produce a higher idle, and counterclockwise ("OPENING" THE JET) will produce a lower idle (and eventually flood and the engine will kill, if you turn it too far).
    6) Open the throttle lever to full blast. Adjust the High jet until you get maximum RPMs. Note: this will probably be REALLY LOUD. Listen for the highest-pitched whine to tell you where max RPMs are hit.
    AFTER YOU FIND THE MAX RPM SETTING, TURN THE HIGH JET COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ("OPEN" THE JET) APPROX 1/16TH OF A TURN TO ENSURE YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT GAS/OIL MIX TO COOL THE ENGINE PROPERLY.

    Note: The above are just general guidelines. You may need to adjust both the H and L screws once you begin riding, depending on engine loading, altitude, humidity, etc. The trick is to find settings that work well for you, and stick with them.

    Here is some helpful information regarding common carburetor tuning problems:

    If your e
    ngine stutters at full throttle and cannot reach full RPMs: 
    The high jet is too far open.  Close the jet by turning it clockwise slightly, and then ride-test. If no improvement, repeat until desired results are achieved. Once you have found a workable setting, open the jet approx 1/16 of a turn to ensure sufficient fuel/air mix. 

    If your engine bogs out when transitioning from low speed:
    The high jet is too far closed. Open the jet by turning it counterclockwise until you are at least 1 1/2 turns open, and then gradually close the jet until performance is as desired. Poor engine compression, blocked exhausts, and very heavy engine loading can all also cause bogging. 

    If your engine idles very fast and kills if you attempt to slow the idle:
    You may have an air leak in your intake. An easy way to check for leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.

    If your engine idles but then slowly kills:
    Your low jet is too far open. Close the low jet by turning it clockwise until a stable idle is achieved.
     
  • What are the recommended carburetor needle settings for my engine?
    DDM recommends the following tuning as a STARTING POINT for tuning your engine:
    G230RC / G260RC / CY23RC / CY26RC / CY27RC / CY29RC / GP290 engines: 1 and 1/4 L, 1 and 3/8 H.
    GP420 / GP460 engine: 1 and 1/4 L, 2 and 1/2 H.

     
  • What Spark plugs will work in my Zenoah or Chung Yang RC-style engine? What electrode gap is correct?
    For the Zenoah RC-style engines and clones, the following plugs work well:
    Champion R27C
    NGK CR8HVX
    NGK CR8HSA
    NGK CR7HVX
    NGK CR7HSA
    NGK CMR8A
    NGK CMR7A

    This plug works the BEST: NGK CR8HIX Iridium Plug
    A gap of .65mm (.029 inches) is recommended.
     
  • How should I install a new big-bore kit on my Zenoah or Chung Yang RC-style engine?
    Here are some basic instructions to help you install a new big-bore kit or replacement top end for your motor:
    1) Remove all outer engine parts from your current engine - remove the airfilter, carburetor and intake manifold; remove the engine shroud and ignition coil, disconnect the muffler, etc. The cylinder should now be bare with nothing attached to it.
    2) Remove the cylinder by removing the bolts holding it to the crankcase. Gently slide the cylinder up and off. Remove the old cylinder gasket.
    3) Separate the piston from the crankshaft. Remove the c-clips which hold the piston on the piston pin and bearing. Slide the piston off, and remove the piston pin, washers, and pin bearing if your kit includes new ones.
    4) Put the piston ring on your new piston. Slide it down over the top. Be careful not to bend the ring or it may break. Make sure the gap in the piston ring is aligned with the little nub in the piston ring groove on the piston.
    5) Re-connect the piston to the crankshaft. Make sure the arrow or dot on the piston is toward the exhaust (not intake) side of the engine. Make sure you have the pin washers at both sides of the piston pin. Install the c-clips at both sides to ensure the piston is securely attached. Make sure these clips snap securely into their grooves.
    6) Place the new cylinder gasket on the crankcase. Slide your new cylinder down over the piston and ring. You may need to compress the piston ring slightly to get the cylinder on. Again, make sure the gap in the ring is aligned with the little nub in the piston ring groove. Slide the cylinder down slowly and smoothly. Try not to wiggle or twist it too much to avoid scoring the cylinder.
    7) Reconnect the cylinder to the crankcase. Tighten the bolts firmly.
    8) Reinstall the carb, filter, muffler, shroud, coil, etc removed in step 1. When reinstalling the ignition coil, place a business card between the coil and the flywheel. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets pull the coil and flywheel together, pinching the card. Now, tighten the ignition coil bolts. This will ensure you have a proper gap between the coil and flywheel.
    9) Once all parts are reinstalled, fire up your new engine and enjoy your new, more powerful machine! Be sure to heat-cycle the engine several times (run the engine for a few minutes at a low, varied throttle, turn it off and allow to cool, then repeat) in order to allow the new parts to properly seat themselves.

     
  • How should I break-in my Zenoah or Chung Yang RC-style engine?
    Zenoah RC-style engines and clones are tuned for high performance and need to be well taken care of. Breaking-in an engine is a process of alternately heating and cooling the engine to allow all parts to properly seat themselves, and allowing 2-stroke oil from the incoming fuel to coat the interior of the engine. DDM recommends the following break-in procedure:
    Use 91 octane or higher fuel, mixed 25:1 with a quality non-synthetic 2-stroke oil.  (You can use synthetic oil for break-in also. Just run slightly more fuel through the engine. ) Run the engine at varying speeds for periods of 3 to 10 minutes at a time. During this break-in time, NEVER go full throttle. Always let the engine idle for 30 seconds before turning it off. Allow the engine to cool off for 10 minutes before starting it again. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times - 3 or 4 full "heat cycles".
    After the break-in period, switch to a high-quality synthetic 2-stroke oil, mixed at 25:1. Be sure to let the engine idle for 30 seconds to cool before stopping. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule included in your engine owners manual.
     
  • Help! My Zenoah or Chung Yang RC-style engine won't start! What's wrong?
    This engine is tuned for high performance and needs to be well taken care of. If your engine won't start, check the following things:
    1) Are you using high octane gasoline? 91 octane or higher is needed. Using octane booster is not recommended.
    2) Are you using high-quality 2-stroke oil mixed at 25:1? This is 5 ounces of oil per gallon. DO NOT USE any oil labeled as 'TCW-3', 'MARINE' or 'OUTBOARD' oil. These are designed for low-revving, water-cooled oil-injected motors (such as personal watercraft), and your engine will likely not run well if you use them.
    3) Are you using the choke properly? On the side of the carburetor there is often a choke lever. Horizontal is open, vertical is closed. Lever should be closed when first starting. As soon as the engine sputters at all, move the choke to open and leave it there.
    4)
    Is your spark plug clean and working? Remove the plug from the engine and inspect the tip. Is it clogged with gunk or debris? Clean if necessary. After the plug is removed, check if the plug is working by: attaching the wire to the top of the plug, and place the tip of the plug very close to the metal of the cylinder. Pull the pull start a few times. A spark should jump from the plug to the cylinder. If no spark or weak spark, replace the plug, ensure the ignition coil and flywheel are properly gapped, then check again. If still no spark - you likely have a problem with the ignition coil, and will need professional service.
    5) Is your carburetor properly tuned? Rotate the 'H' and 'L' screws on the side of the carb fully clockwise ('closed'). Then, turn the L screw counterclockwise ('open') 1 and 1/4 turns. Turn the H screw open 1 and 3/8 turns. You may need to adjust these screws slightly in either direction to find correct tuning for your carb.
    6) Is your engine flooded? If you have pushed the primer bulb a lot of times, or pulled the pull start a lot of times, the engine may be flooded. Remove the spark plug, and allow all the fuel in the cylinder to evaporate. You can speed up this process by blowing on it with a hair dryer.
    7) Are you getting good compression? If you have used your engine for an extended period of time, the piston ring may need replacement. See instructions below.
    8) Do you have a gasket leak? Check your carb gasket, intake gasket, cylinder gasket, and crankcase gasket. Can you hear air whooshing out of the cylinder gasket or crankcase gasket when you pull the starter? Is air leaking in the manifold gasket behind the carb? A gasket leak results in a loss of compression and/or improperly mixed fuel and air.
    An easy way to check for intake leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an intake air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.

    If your engine still won't start, you will likely need professional service on your engine.
     
  • How do I change the Zenoah or Chung Yang RC-style piston ring?
    If your engine is losing compression, the ring may need replacing. Here's how:
    Remove your air filter, carburetor and muffler. Remove the fan cover and the engine cover. Remove the ignition coil, and then remove the two cylinder bolts. Keep them safe. Remove the cylinder by pulling firmly upwards. Do not rotate, twist, or bend the cylinder, or slide it up and down. Remove the old ring by carefully breaking it off, or bending it and pulling it off the top of the piston. Try to avoid touching the piston or inside cylinder with your bare hands - your body oils or other foreign matter on your hands may harm the engine... you may want to consider wearing clean latex gloves. Now, carefully install the new ring by bending it over the top of the piston. You can put the ring in the oven at 200
    ° for a few minutes to warm it up and make it less likely to crack during installation. Place a drop or two of 2-stroke oil on the edge of the ring. You can also put in a new base gasket now if your current gasket needs replacing. Slide the cylinder back on smoothly (no twisting or up and down) and replace the cylinder bolts. Re-install the ignition coil, engine cover and fan cover, muffler, carb, and filter. Follow the break-in instructions above to allow the new ring to seat itself well.
     
  •  What chain lube should I use on my chain-driven Goped scooter?
    DDM highly recommends top-quality PJ1 chain lubricant.
     
  • How does a tuned pipe exhaust work? Why will it increase the performance of my engine?
    A "tuned pipe" is the common name for a Helmholtz resonator. An example you are probably more familiar with is an organ pipe, which resonates or is "tuned" to a particular frequency. 2-stroke engines also make a sound wave with a particular frequency. As the RPM's of your engine get higher, the pulses of exhaust gas coming out of your engine bounce back and forth inside the pipe and create a "standing wave". Areas of high and low pressure are created. The exhaust is sucked quickly out of the low pressure areas. Tuned pipes create a low pressure area directly behind the cylinder, and exhaust is sucked quickly out of the cylinder! This makes more room for fresh air and fuel, and thus: more power for your ped. Additionally, return waves help push back incoming fuel/air mix, keeping it in the cylinder to be burned. This is why tuned pipes are an excellent investment, despite the cost. Other systems, such as aftermarket mufflers with two exhaust tubes, simply reduce the back pressure from the muffler. They cannot create a standing wave which leads to low pressure at the exhaust port.
     
  • How can I tell how fast my Goped or Pocketbike is?
    The only accurate way to measure your scooter or pocketbike speed is: use a speed trap. It is the only foolproof, accurate method of judging speed. All official speed records are measured this way. Here's how a simple speed trap works:
    We want to find out how many feet per second you are traveling. This is easy to do.
    Measure off a known distance on a street (at least 200 feet). 300 or more feet is better and will be more accurate. Mark a start line and a finish line.
    Now, get a long running start from further down the street, so you are going FULL SPEED on your vehicle when you cross the start line.
    With a stopwatch, have someone time how long it takes you to travel from the start line to the finish. This is best accomplished as follows:
    Have the person with the stopwatch stand at the start line, and start the timer when you cross the line. Have another person with a flag or something stand at the finish line. When the scooter crosses the finish line, quickly lower the flag. The person with the stopwatch should stop the timer when the flag is lowered.
    Let's say it took you 5.4 seconds.
    This means that you were going (200 feet / 5.4 seconds) = 37 feet per second.
    But how many MPH is that?
    There are 60 seconds in a minute and 60 minutes in an hour, so there are (60 * 60) = 3600 seconds in an hour.
    This means you were going (37 feet/sec * 3600 sec/hour) = 133,200 feet per hour.
    Almost there...
    There are 5,280 feet in a mile, so you were going (133,200 / 5280) = 25.2 MPH. Not bad!

    The general formula for finding MPH from Feet Per Second is: FPS * .682 = MPH.
     
  • POCKETBIKE FAQ

    • How can I tell what kind of engine is in my pocketbike?
      Most pocketbikes use 2-stroke engines. There are two different types of 2-stroke engines in use on pocketbikes:


      These engines are used on '47cc' pocketbikes. The carburetor connects to the crankcase. These engines generally have a 40mm cylinder (for an actual engine size of 40.2cc) or a 44mm cylinder (for an actual engine size of 48.7cc).

      Piston Port Engine


       These engines are used mainly on the larger '49cc' midbikes & superbikes (cateye, X1, X2, 380x, R1, X7, etc). Here, the carburetor connects to the cylinder.

    • How do I install the Rockit Key on a pocketbike engine?

      Note: if you are installing a rockit key in a 47cc pocketbike, please refer to the following illustration: (For 49cc bikes the direction of rotation is the opposite)

      Correct installation of a rocket key will always be with the offset pointing in the direction of flywheel rotation.
       

    • What spark plugs will work in my pocketbike engine?
      For both 47cc and 49cc pocketbikes, the following plugs work well:
      Champion CJ6, CJ8, CJ6Y, CJ8Y
      NGK BM6A, BM7A, BPM6A, BPM7A
      Autolite 253, 254, 255
       
    • Where can I get more technical information on Pocketbikes?
      Pocketbike Planet  ( www.pocketbikeplanet.com ) is a great resource for pocketbike enthusiasts. Here are some links to relevant forums:
      47cc Pocketbike Performance Tips and How-To's

       
    • How should I break-in my pocketbike engine?
      Breaking-in an engine is a process of alternately heating and cooling the engine to allow all parts to properly seat themselves, and allowing 2-stroke oil from the incoming fuel to coat the interior of the engine. DDM recommends the following break-in procedure:
      Use premium fuel, mixed 25:1 with a quality non-synthetic 2-stroke oil.  (You can use synthetic oil for break-in also. Just run 2-3 tanks instead of 1-2. ) Run 1 to 2 tanks of gas through the engine, running the engine at varying speeds for periods of 5 to 15 minutes at a time. During this break-in time, NEVER go full throttle. Always let the engine idle for 30 seconds before turning it off.
      After the break-in period, switch to a high-quality synthetic 2-stroke oil, mixed at 25:1. Be sure to let the engine idle for 30 seconds to cool before stopping. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule included in your engine owners manual.

       
    •  What chain lube should I use on my pocketbike?
      DDM highly recommends top-quality PJ1 chain lubricant
       

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